Gen. Douglas MacArthur is rumored to have fulfilled his “I Shall Return” promise via the Pacific province of Leyte during World War II not just for its military significance, but because of its charm – a place where he felt he can linger a little bit longer after kicking out the Japanese. This 74-year-old story could have been an urban legend, but the undisputable fact is that this coastal Visayan idyll is worth returning to, for reasons that go far beyond the larger-than-life bronze tableau that memorializes the historic 1944 Leyte Gulf Landings. While the postcard-pretty war memorial is a must-see for every visitor to Leyte, it is best to explore beyond it to discover the province’s bucolic charm.