Manila’s most cinematic, seductive speakeasy welcomed Hong Kong cocktail royalty. The chaos was glorious.
On June 26–27, the Admiral Hotel Manila – MGallery lit up with a rare sensory crossfire as Ruby Wong’s Godown hosted a two-night takeover by none other than Quinary Hong Kong—one of Asia’s most decorated cocktail temples. And let me tell you: their taking over the party was most welcome.
Voted consistently among the World’s 50 Best Bars (2013–2017, 2021) and most recently placing #26 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2024, Quinary brought serious firepower to Manila. At the helm were Bar Manager Kai Ng and Head Mixologist Jackie Wong, who unleashed a bold, high-concept cocktail experience that blurred the line between science, art, and straight-up pleasure. This wasn’t just a bar takeover—it was a full-on flavor-packed, flair-filled riot, and I was lucky enough to catch it on its second night.
Ms. Ruby’s World: noir, noodles, and no apologies
If you’ve never been to the Godown, let me paint the picture: it’s dark, decadent, and absolutely dripping in style. Part vintage Hong Kong opium den, part underground cabaret, Ruby Wong’s Godown—tucked into the sleek heritage shell of the Admiral Hotel along Roxas Boulevard—isn’t just a bar. It’s a fever dream.
The entire space is a tribute to the fictional Ruby Wong, imagined as a sultry, subversive figure—a woman who moves between worlds, challenges conventions, and hosts one heck of a party. Her influence is everywhere: from the cryptic signage to the velvet shadows, from the perfumed air to the Noodle Alley out front serving dishes that are as theatrical as they are tasty.
It felt like the perfect backdrop for a Quinary invasion. Glamorous but gritty. Playful but precise. Just the kind of place where boundaries blur—especially with a cocktail in hand. And Ms. Ruby’s bar guards, Wilius Czar Bautista, Chief Elixir Curator, and John Silva, Master Bartender Mixologist, gamely handed over the reins—with the cool confidence of keepers who know their house can take the heat.
Quinary’s realm: science, art, and booze in equal parts
Hong Kong’s Quinary isn’t just famous—it’s foundational. Launched by Antonio Lai, a pioneer of molecular mixology in Asia, the bar has built its rep on multi-sensory, technique-forward drinks that never feel gimmicky. They’re nerdy, sure, but also gorgeous. Accessible. Addictive.
With accolades from across the globe and a rabid fan base, the team knows how to put on a show—and Manila got the full spectacle. Kai Ng and Jackie Wong flew in with tools, tinctures, and talent, backed by Don Papa Rum, and they didn’t waste a second. Each drink was layered, inventive, and unapologetically daring.
Heat, haze, and a whole lot of ‘heck, yeah!’
I made it out on Friday and it was total fire. Like, singe-your-sensibilities-and-sear-your-sanity fire. A delicious, disorienting deep dive into cocktails and creative chaos—powered by Don Papa, tattooed live by Malditattoo Studios, and scored to the soulful stylings of The Jazz Trio. The crowd at the Thursday kickoff got the deep pulse of DiscollectiveMNL.
We started out with savory bites from Ms. Ruby’s Noodle Alley—an atmospheric, Old Shanghai–style noodle house hidden down a rustic staircase, where steamy broths and comforting, spice-kissed dishes set the tone for the evening. Then the cocktails started flowing—from there it was all marvelous multisensory mayhem.
Quinary hits, Manila twists
Kai and Jackie brought three cocktail creations—each a reworked Quinary original, laced with local ingredients, and dripping with the kind of sultry sophistication you’d expect from a bar helmed by Ms. Ruby herself. Here’s what went down, in my own words:
Oolong Tea Collin: Don Papa Rum, Oolong Tea Cordial, and Soda Water. This was nice and light, refreshing. A good way to start or end the night. Lightly seductive, as starters or enders go. Tea-based cocktails are having a moment in Asia’s bar scene, and this one brought the right balance of bitter tannins and tropical effervescence.
Quinary Sour (my second fave!): Monk Fruit & Nori-Infused Don Papa Rye Cask, Licorice & Bonito Syrup, Fresh Lemon Juice, Egg White Froth, Mancino Ross Amoranto. A reimagination of the classic sour—this is a cocktail that hits all the right flavor notes, and then some. Call this the savory bombshell. With umami notes from seaweed and bonito layered against the sweetness of monk fruit and the herbaceous depth of Mancino vermouth, this one lingered in all the right ways.
Wax (MY FAVE!): Brown Butter Fat-Washed Don Papa Masskara, Don Papa 7 Years, Bee Pollen Infused with Mancino Ross Amoranto, Homemade Cedarwood Tincture, Saline Solution 20%, Pine Tar Liqueur. Like, what?!? SO GOOD. A wild, woodsy aroma pulls you in—then the rich, buttery mouthfeel and deep sweetness hit, cut perfectly by a flash of salt. This one doesn’t just demurely whisper complexity—it shouts it in the best way.
From cocktails to karaoke (notes? who needs to hit them?)
The night didn’t stop at the drinks. The energy got even more frenetic somewhere around midnight—blame it on the bee pollen and brown butter—and next thing I knew, someone handed me a mic. Let’s just say there *may or may not* be video evidence of me belting out Dancing Queen. Questionably so. I’d left my voice in another dimension. But still—the spirit (and the cocktails) moved me.
Thankfully, what happens in the Godown stays in the Godown.
High expectations, minus the hangover
By the time the lights went low and the last cocktail glass was cleared, I knew I’d been part of something special. This wasn’t just a bartending shift. It was a collision of icons—Quinary’s high-concept cocktail craft smashing into Ruby Wong’s decadent fantasy world, all under the Admiral’s elegant roof.
And now? I’m counting the days until the next takeover. Because with a space like the Godown, and a host like Ruby Wong, the possibilities are endless—and always a little dangerous.
Let the next rollicking riot begin.
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