When it comes to dining, The Funny Lion – Puerto Princesa is Certainly the Cat’s Meow

The cat’s out of the bag: The Funny Lion – Puerto Princesa is leading the gastronomic pack in Palawan’s capital city. Having opened its doors in December 2023 as the third Funny Lion property in Palawan (the first two opened in Coron and El Nido, in 2014 and 2022, respectively) this tropical retreat has quickly become the go-to of gastronomes with a hankering for some fiercely fantastic food.

Indeed, you shouldn’t let the name fool you. While the brand most definitely likes to take a walk on the wackier side of wit and wanderlust, when it comes to food, The Funny Lion is one serious feline. In addition to Hunt, its all-day dining den, The Funny Lion – Puerto Princesa’s newly opened culinary concepts — C75 French Vietnamese Bistro and the Coffee Bar — prove that epicurean excellence is no laughing matter. After all, The Funny Lion is owned and operated by One-Of Collection, the boutique hotel group renowned for its laidback take on luxury; its focus on easygoing yet elegant and elevated island living. But also true to the brand’s signature style, each dining destination delivers on deftly devised delights that unleash the playful charm for which The Funny Lion is known.

By way of One-Of Collection’s gracious invitation, I — along with a number of industry colleagues — happily hightailed it to The Funny Lion, smack dab in Puerto Princesa’s lush locale, for an epicurean adventure worth roaring about.

Find phở -tastic French-Vietnamese cuisine at C75

We flew in just in time for C75’s opening night, which saw quite a turnout. Located directly above Hunt, C75 reflects the minimalist ethos of the property, with a softer take on the Brutalist aesthetic (as interpreted by architect Rapunzel Caparas) that characterizes the Funny Lion-Puerto Princesa. The exposed ceiling lends an edgy vibe, overall, while pops of color (in paintings and other design elements) add flair and whimsy. The uncluttered main dining space, flanked by a well-stocked bar, opens to an al fresco seating area overlooking the infinity pool and beachfront. Oversized clay pots brimming with bushels of basil add a touch of green and rustic charm, as well as a hint of natural aromatics.

Now, not many people are aware that Puerto Princesa was among the first cities in the region to welcome Vietnamese settlers, who sought asylum in the Philippines from the mid-’70s to the early ’80s. So let’s get into that for a bit. Fleeing poverty, political oppression, and strife brought on by war, the refugees set up camp at the Philippine First Asylum Center, along the road of what was back then the Puerto Princesa City Airport. Decades later, a strong Vietnamese legacy remains, particularly in the locale’s gastronomy. The capital city is still home to Viet Ville, in Santa Lourdes (roughly 14 kilometers from the camp’s original location), as well as to numerous hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese noodle houses and eateries.

C75 pays homage to this legacy, with its own renditions of popular French-Vietnamese fare, expertly executed by Chef Ace Manalo, the resort’s Executive Chef, and his culinary team, with Chef Greg Villalon, One-Of Collection’s Corporate Executive Chef, at the helm. “Every property that we put up has a connection with the local scene; in this case, it was just automatic that we open a Vietnamese concept, to make the cuisine more easily accessible to our guests, as well,” Chef Greg shared over dinner.

True to its quirky side, while not being catty about it, the bistro’s name comes with a bit of a backstory; and, as a card-carrying member of the Crazy Cat Lady club, I do love the lore. The story goes that the Vietnamese settlers brought with them their children, their cuisine, and their cats. The Funny Lion’s version recounts that a clowder of cats might have been undercover agents; felines who would meet in secret and cook up a mean storm, as a way of averting potential “cat-astrophe” brought on by their duplicitous secret agent lives. Thus, the Cats of ’75 or C75 was born.

Now onto the food — C75’s menu, around 25-dishes-strong, is a symphony of flavors and textures, all of which showcase the fresh, aromatic herbs and vibrant ingredients that define French-Vietnamese cuisine. From steaming bowls of savory phở and banh mi stuffed with the freshest fillings, to succulent duck confit, crispy steak frites, and a variety of grilled and braised meats and seafood, C75 offers a feast for the senses.

My favorites, as a non-meat eater, save for the occasional seafood indulgence, include the Rolled Ratatouille, these deep fried rolls filled with stewed veggies, served with a smooth cheese fondue dip, really dance on your palate and are so flavorful; Fresh Spring Roll Mahi-Mahi, succulent slices of mahi-mahi, delicately pickled slivered veggies, and fresh herbs wrapped in perfectly prepped rice paper; Trois Champignons Pho, a tasty trio of braised, oven-dried, and pickled mushrooms, swimming in a savory, soul-soothing, sublimely seasoned veggie-mushroom broth, with fresh herbs and springy rice noodles; and the Bouillabaisse Bun bo Hue; a crave-worthy combination of mixed seafood, shrimp terrine, fresh herbs, and rice noodles with the perfect bite in an aroma-rich, divinely delicious, spiced seafood broth.

If you’re of a more carnivorous bent and hanker for toothsome treats, fret not, there are lots of marvelous meat options on the menu.

On the prowl for fabulous foodie finds at Hunt

Hunt restaurant, meanwhile, has quickly blazed a trail as a foodie’s oasis in Puerto Princesa. With a menu that targets Filipino and international cuisine, as well as special promotions like the Saturday dinner buffet and seasonal offerings, Hunt has become among the go-to dining haunts of locals looking to celebrate special occasions or to simply bag a really good meal. In line with the resort’s emphasis on sustainability, Hunt’s menu delves into the deliciousness of fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Whether it’s a plateful of succulent grilled seafood or tender braised meat, each meal is a celebration of culinary craftsmanship and Palawan’s panache, from starters to the “Mane Events” on the roster.

“It isn’t just the freshness of our ingredients that sets our cuisine apart; it’s also the art and story behind each dish. We put twists, here and there, to cater to the varied profiles of our diners, since Puerto Princesa is really a melting pot of cultures,” Chef Ace noted.

Of the 30+ à la carte items on the menu, I especially relished the Nutting But Shrimp, a super satisfying combo of savory shrimp, veggies, and roasted Palawan cashews in a sticky mulled wine sauce with rice furikake; Catch Up, plump whole grilled grouper fish with a zesty anchovy-caper brown butter compound sauce and potato fondant; and the wood-fired Four Cheese and Hawaiian Shrimp Pizzas, baked fresh in Hunt’s dedicated brick pizza oven from 3 PM onward.

Bespoke menus are likewise an option for events; just organize your special, sumptuous safari with Chef Greg or Chef Ace. Hunt also accommodates requests for meals at the floating raft by the mangroves, just across the beachfront (we had breakfast there and it was awesome; definitely going down as a core food memory, for me) or at the nearby pristine sandbar.

I also particularly enjoyed the restaurant’s expansive dining area, and overall dinescape, with its open design and full view of The Funny Lion’s awe-inspiring Savannah-style gardens, carefully curated by renowned interior designer Eric Paras. Of course, as with the entirety of the resort, Hunt is styled and decorated to sheer perfection, with Paras flexing his creativity at every turn.

Keep the adventure going at the Coffee Bar

If catnapping is off the agenda and you find yourself chasing after a caffeine fix, you can catch it at The Coffee Bar. Tucked discreetly in a corner just off the resort’s lobby-reception area, the Coffee Bar features a number of freshly brewed coffee concoctions, a scrumptious selection of cookies, and creamy soft-serve vanilla ice cream in freshly baked waffle cones. Chef Lhei Abalos Manalo, the resort’s Product Development and Operations Associate, is responsible for all this deliciousness. But don’t blame her for the calories; they’re well-worth it!

Here’s where it gets especially tricky to narrow my favorites, coffee and dessert fiend that I am. But if I had to pick, the Affogato tops my list of caffeinated creations — two shots of espresso with soft serve vanilla ice cream and deeply caramelized, glassy cashew brittle. As for the cookies, the Double Fudge is just extra deliciously decadent! Or should I say decadently delicious? Both apply.

A must-mention: while at the resort, do try their signature Tagbanua coffee. Avalaible in-room and at Hunt, this special blend was sourced by the resort’s General Manager, Mike Mahinay, from the Tagbanua tribe of Coron, after much persuasion. Outside of the tribe’s ancestral village, this smooth, smoky brew — hand-roasted by the Tagbanua chieftain and tribal elders — is available exclusively at The Funny Lion.

Feast on the lion’s share of all-things delicious

Truly, The Funny Lion – Puerto Princesa has roared its way to the forefront of the city’s dining scene. The gastronomic journey, navigating through the diverse offerings of Hunt, C75 French-Vietnamese Bistro, and the Coffee Bar, exemplifies a fresh and bold take on food tourism that’s hard to ignore.

Together, these three dining venues are redefining Puerto Princesa’s luscious culinary landscape, setting a new standard that has food enthusiasts purring with delight. It’s not just about eating out; it’s about savoring an experience that’s as spirited and dynamic as the city itself. Whether you’re a local or a traveler on a gourmet quest, this resort promises to deliver a feast that’s nothing short of purr-fect.

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